Gogo the Baby Gorilla

What You Will Need

Yarn:

• Charcoal or dark gray (D), about 100 yards (91 m), for the head, body, arms, and ears
• Light gray (L), about 60 yards (55 m), for the face, belly, hands, and feet
• Black (K), a small scrap of about 5 yards (4.5 m), for the nostrils and the eye ring details
• Tip: Use a DK weight 100% cotton yarn. Cotton gives crisp stitches that hide the stuffing and make the gorilla look neat. Use a smaller hook than usual, so your stitches stay tight.

Tools:

• 3.0 mm (D/3) crochet hook
• 8 mm black safety eyes (1 pair), or black beads
• Poly-fil or fiberfill stuffing
• Yarn needle with a large eye for sewing and embroidering
• Stitch markers
• Sharp scissors
• Straight pins for placing the pieces before sewing

The Basics (US Terms)

• MR = magic ring
• ch = chain
• sc = single crochet
• inc = increase (work 2 single crochets into the same stitch)
• dec = decrease (work 2 single crochets together, invisible decrease is best)
• sl st = slip stitch
• BLO = back loop only
• D, L, K = charcoal, light gray, black
• All pieces are worked in continuous rounds. Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round.
• When changing colors, pull the new color through on the last stitch of the previous round.

Let Us Get Started

Gogo is made of a head, a face mask, a muzzle, a body with a belly patch, two arms with hands, two feet, two ears, and two nostrils.

Part 1: The Head

Worked with charcoal yarn.

1. Round 1: Work 6 sc into a magic ring. (6 stitches)
2. Round 2: Inc in every stitch around. (12 stitches)
3. Round 3: (1 sc, inc) repeat 6 times. (18 stitches)
4. Round 4: (2 sc, inc) repeat 6 times. (24 stitches)
5. Round 5: (3 sc, inc) repeat 6 times. (30 stitches)
6. Round 6: (4 sc, inc) repeat 6 times. (36 stitches)
7. Rounds 7 to 14: Work 1 sc in every stitch around. (36 stitches) This makes the tall, domed head. If you are using safety eyes, place them now between rounds 12 and 13, about 6 stitches apart, in the center front. Secure them tightly on the inside.
8. Round 15: (4 sc, dec) repeat 6 times. (30 stitches)
9. Round 16: (3 sc, dec) repeat 6 times. (24 stitches)
10. Round 17: (2 sc, dec) repeat 6 times. (18 stitches)
11. Stuff the head firmly so it is nice and round.
12. Round 18: (1 sc, dec) repeat 6 times. (12 stitches)
13. Cut the yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing. Leave the 12 stitches open for attaching the head to the body.

Part 2: The Face Mask

Worked with light gray yarn.

1. Round 1: Work 6 sc into a magic ring. (6 stitches)
2. Round 2: Inc in every stitch around. (12 stitches)
3. Round 3: (1 sc, inc) repeat 6 times. (18 stitches)
4. Round 4: (2 sc, inc) repeat 6 times. (24 stitches)
5. Round 5: (3 sc, inc) repeat 6 times. (30 stitches)
6. Join with a sl st to the next stitch and fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff. The mask is a flat disc, about 2.25 inches (5.5 cm) across.
7. Gently pinch the top of the disc, so it is slightly heart-shaped, with a little dip in the top center, where it meets the brow.

Part 3: The Muzzle

Worked with light gray yarn.

1. Round 1: Work 6 sc into a magic ring. (6 stitches)
2. Round 2: Inc in every stitch around. (12 stitches)
3. Round 3: (1 sc, inc) repeat 6 times. (18 stitches)
4. Round 4: (2 sc, inc) repeat 6 times. (24 stitches)
5. Rounds 5 to 7: Work 1 sc in every stitch around. (24 stitches)
6. Round 8: (2 sc, dec) repeat 6 times. (18 stitches)
7. Stuff the muzzle firmly, so it is nice and round.
8. Round 9: (1 sc, dec) repeat 6 times. (12 stitches)
9. Cut the yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing. Leave the 12 stitches open for sewing to the face.

Part 4: The Nostrils (Make 2)

Worked with black yarn.

1. Round 1: Work 6 sc into a magic ring. (6 stitches)
2. Round 2: Inc in every stitch around. (12 stitches)
3. Join with a sl st to the next stitch and fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Flatten the little disc. It is about 3/4 inch (2 cm) across.

Part 5: The Body

Worked with charcoal and light gray yarn. Start at the bottom.

1. Round 1 (D): Work 6 sc into a magic ring. (6 stitches)
2. Round 2: Inc in every stitch around. (12 stitches)
3. Round 3: (1 sc, inc) repeat 6 times. (18 stitches)
4. Round 4: (2 sc, inc) repeat 6 times. (24 stitches)
5. Round 5: (3 sc, inc) repeat 6 times. (30 stitches)
6. Rounds 6 to 11: Work 1 sc in every stitch around. (30 stitches)
7. Round 12: (3 sc, dec) repeat 6 times. (24 stitches)
8. Round 13: (2 sc, dec) repeat 6 times. (18 stitches)
9. Stuff the body firmly, making sure the bottom is nice and flat so Gogo sits upright.
10. Round 14: (1 sc, dec) repeat 6 times. (12 stitches)
11. Rounds 15 to 16: Work 1 sc in every stitch around. (12 stitches)
12. Cut the yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing. Leave the 12 stitches open for attaching the head.

Part 6: The Belly Patch

Worked with light gray yarn.

1. Round 1: Work 6 sc into a magic ring. (6 stitches)
2. Round 2: Inc in every stitch around. (12 stitches)
3. Round 3: (1 sc, inc) repeat 6 times. (18 stitches)
4. Round 4: (2 sc, inc) repeat 6 times. (24 stitches)
5. Join with a sl st to the next stitch and fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff. The belly patch is a flat disc, about 2 inches (5 cm) across.

Part 7: The Arms (Make 2)

Worked with light gray and charcoal yarn. Start at the hand.

1. Round 1 (L): Work 6 sc into a magic ring. (6 stitches)
2. Round 2: Inc in every stitch around. (12 stitches)
3. Round 3: Work 1 sc in the BLO of every stitch around. (12 stitches) This ridge marks the edge of the hand.
4. Round 4: (2 sc, dec) repeat 3 times. (9 stitches)
5. Rounds 5 to 6 (L): Work 1 sc in every stitch around. (9 stitches)
6. Rounds 7 to 14 (D): Change to charcoal. Work 1 sc in every stitch around. (9 stitches)
7. Stuff the arm firmly, packing the hand first.
8. Cut the yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing. Leave the end open.

Part 8: The Feet (Make 2)

Worked with light gray yarn.

1. Round 1: Work 6 sc into a magic ring. (6 stitches)
2. Round 2: Inc in every stitch around. (12 stitches)
3. Round 3: (1 sc, inc) repeat 6 times. (18 stitches)
4. Round 4: (2 sc, inc) repeat 6 times. (24 stitches)
5. Rounds 5 to 6: Work 1 sc in every stitch around. (24 stitches)
6. Round 7: (2 sc, dec) repeat 6 times. (18 stitches)
7. Stuff firmly so it is nice and round.
8. Round 8: (1 sc, dec) repeat 6 times. (12 stitches)
9. Cut the yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing. Leave the 12 stitches open.

Part 9: The Ears (Make 2)

Worked with charcoal yarn.

1. Round 1: Work 6 sc into a magic ring. (6 stitches)
2. Round 2: Inc in every stitch around. (12 stitches)
3. Round 3: (1 sc, inc) repeat 6 times. (18 stitches)
4. Join with a sl st to the next stitch and fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff. The ear is a small flat disc, about 1.5 inches (4 cm) across. Fold it in half.

Assembly and Finishing

This is where Gogo comes to life. Take your time pinning before you sew.

Making the Face:

1. Pin the face mask on the front of the head, so it covers the lower half of the face, with the dip in the top center between the eyes. The eyes should sit at the top edge of the mask, just above the dip.
2. Sew the mask on with the long tail, going around the edge with small stitches.
3. Pin the muzzle on the lower center of the mask, so it sticks out slightly. Sew it on all the way around with the long tail, going through the front loops of the last round of the muzzle, and add a bit more stuffing before you close.
4. Pin the nostrils on the top of the muzzle, about 3 stitches apart, and slightly angled, as in the photo. Sew each one on with the long tail.
5. With black yarn, embroider a small ring around each eye, if you like, using 4 or 5 tiny straight stitches.

Adding the Ears:

1. Pin an ear on each side of the head, between Rounds 11 and 13, with the fold facing forward.
2. Sew each ear on along the folded edge, using small stitches. Make sure they sit symmetrically, one on each side.

Attaching the Head:

1. Pin the head on top of the body, tilted very slightly forward.
2. Sew all the way around with the long tail from the body, using a whip stitch. Add more stuffing in the neck before you close, if needed, so the head does not droop.

Adding the Belly:

1. Pin the belly patch to the front of the body, centered, just below the neck.
2. Sew it on with the long tail, using small stitches around the edge. Add a little stuffing under it, if you like, to make the belly round.

Attaching the Arms:

1. Pin the arms on the sides of the body, at the shoulders, angled slightly forward, so the hands rest on the sides of the belly.
2. Sew each arm on firmly, going around twice.

Attaching the Feet:

1. Pin the feet to the bottom front of the body, about 3 stitches apart, with the open ends against the body, and the soles pointing forward.
2. Sew each foot on firmly, going around twice. Check that Gogo can sit up, and adjust the position if he tips over.
3. Weave in all remaining ends.

A Few Friendly Tips

• Keep it snug: Keep your tension tight and even. Loose stitches let the stuffing show through, and tight stitches make the gorilla look neat and chunky.
• Firm neck: Stuff the neck firmly, and sew the head on in a few places. A firm neck keeps the big, tall head from drooping.
• Standing strong: If Gogo tips over, sew the feet a little further apart, and add more stuffing to the feet and the bottom of the body.
• Face placement: Pin the mask, muzzle, and eyes in place, and look at them from a few angles. A mask that sits lower makes a sweeter, younger face.
• Make it your own: Try a silverback with a light gray back, a brown orangutan, a cream baby gorilla, or add a tiny banana in his hand.
• Size up: For a bigger gorilla, use chunky yarn and a larger hook, with the same stitch counts.
• Safe for little ones: For babies and toddlers, skip the safety eyes and embroider the eyes with black yarn. Sew the ears, nostrils, and limbs on with extra stitches.
• Care: Spot clean, or hand wash gently, and lay flat to dry.

I hope you enjoy making this sweet little gorilla. He is such a fun project and makes a wonderful handmade gift.

If you run into any trouble or just want to share how your gorilla turned out, please reach out. I love seeing what you create.

Happy crocheting!