Neon Rainbow Granny Cardigan

What You Will Need

Yarn:

• Black (K), about 900 yards (820 m). It is used for the sleeve rows, the cuffs, the outer panel rounds, and all the seams.
• Neon purple (P), about 120 yards (110 m)
• Neon green or lime (G), about 100 yards (90 m)
• Teal or turquoise (T), about 100 yards (90 m)
• Neon yellow (Y), about 100 yards (90 m)
• Neon orange (O), about 100 yards (90 m)
• Hot pink (H), about 150 yards (140 m)
• Bright blue (B), about 50 yards (45 m, for the sleeves only)
• Tip: Use a DK weight cotton or acrylic yarn. Neon acrylics give the brightest rainbow. Buy an extra skein of black, since it is used in every sleeve row.

Tools:

• 3.5 mm (E/4) crochet hook
• Yarn needle with a large eye for sewing and weaving in ends
• Stitch markers
• Sharp scissors
• Straight pins and a measuring tape
• Blocking mats and pins

Gauge: 6 clusters and 8 rows in granny stitch = 4 x 4 inches (10 x 10 cm). Please make a swatch, since the gauge decides how the cardigan fits.

The Basics (US Terms)

• ch = chain
• dc = double crochet
• sc = single crochet
• sl st = slip stitch
• BLO = back loop only
• hdc = half double crochet
• cluster = 3 dc worked in the same place
• sp = space
• K, P, G, T, Y, O, H, B = black, purple, green, teal, yellow, orange, hot pink, blue

Color Notes

The cardigan has three types of pieces:

• The panels (back and fronts): granny rectangles worked in rounds from the center outward, in rainbow order, finishing with black.
• The sleeves: granny stitch worked flat in rows. Every colored row is followed by a black row, which makes the black dots.
• The cuffs: black ribbing.

Change colors by fastening off at the end of each round, and join the new color in a corner space. Weave in your ends as you go, so you are not left with a mountain of tails at the end.

The Granny Rectangle (for the Panels)

Round 1 (worked into a foundation chain):

1. Ch (3m + 6), where m is the number of clusters along each long side. The back uses m = 8 and the fronts use m = 5.
2. Work 3 dc in the 4th ch from the hook, ch 2, then 3 dc in the same ch. This is the first corner.
3. Skip 2 ch, 3 dc in the next ch. Repeat from * m times.
4. Skip 2 ch, then work (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the last ch for the second corner.
5. Rotate the work to the other side of the foundation chain. Working in the unused loops of the chain, skip 2 ch, 3 dc in the next ch. Repeat from * m times.
6. Join with a sl st to the top of the first dc of the first corner. Fasten off.

Round 2 and all following rounds:

1. Join the next color in any corner ch-2 space.
2. Ch 3 (counts as a dc), 2 dc in the same space, ch 2, 3 dc in the same space. This is the first corner.
3. 3 dc in each space between clusters along the side. Work (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the next corner space. Repeat from * 3 times.
4. 3 dc in each space along the last side.
5. Join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3. Fasten off. Each round adds one cluster to each side. If your count is off, check that you worked 3 dc into every space and into every corner.

Let Us Get Started

We will make five flat pieces, the back panel, two front panels, and two sleeves, then sew them together and add the cuffs.

Part 1: The Back Panel

Worked from the center out, 14 rounds.

1. Foundation: With purple, ch 30. (m = 8)
2. Round 1: Work Round 1 of the granny rectangle, in purple.
3. Rounds 2 to 14: Work Round 2 of the granny rectangle, changing colors as follows:

| Round | Color | |---|---| | 1 to 2 | Purple (P) | | 3 to 4 | Green (G) | | 5 to 6 | Teal (T) | | 7 to 8 | Yellow (Y) | | 9 to 10 | Orange (O) | | 11 to 12 | Hot pink (H) | | 13 to 14 | Black (K) |

4. Fasten off and weave in all ends. The back should measure about 20 inches (51 cm) wide and 14 inches (36 cm) tall.

Part 2: The Front Panels (Make 2)

Worked from the center out, 10 rounds.

1. Foundation: With purple, ch 21. (m = 5)
2. Round 1: Work Round 1 of the granny rectangle, in purple.
3. Rounds 2 to 10: Work Round 2 of the granny rectangle, changing colors as follows:

| Round | Color | |---|---| | 1 to 2 | Purple (P) | | 3 | Green (G) | | 4 | Teal (T) | | 5 | Yellow (Y) | | 6 | Orange (O) | | 7 to 8 | Hot pink (H) | | 9 to 10 | Black (K) |

4. Fasten off and weave in all ends. Each front should measure about 10.5 inches (27 cm) wide and 14 inches (36 cm) tall, with the long side running up and down.

Part 3: The Sleeves (Make 2)

Worked flat in rows, starting at the cuff end.

The Granny Stitch Rows:

• Foundation: Ch 76.
• Row 1: Work 2 dc in the 4th ch from the hook (the skipped chains count as the first dc). Skip 2 ch, 3 dc in the next ch. Repeat from * across to the last 3 ch. Skip 2 ch, dc in the last ch. (24 clusters)
• Row 2 and all following rows: Ch 3 (counts as a dc), turn. Work 3 dc in the space between the next two clusters. Repeat from * across. Finish with 1 dc in the top of the turning ch from the row below. (24 clusters)

Stripe Pattern:

Each color is worked for 2 rows, with a black row after each colored row. That makes 4 rows per color, and 32 rows in total.

| Rows | Color pattern | |---|---| | 1 to 4 | Purple, black, purple, black | | 5 to 8 | Hot pink, black, hot pink, black | | 9 to 12 | Orange, black, orange, black | | 13 to 16 | Yellow, black, yellow, black | | 17 to 20 | Green, black, green, black | | 21 to 24 | Teal, black, teal, black | | 25 to 28 | Blue, black, blue, black | | 29 to 32 | Purple, black, purple, black |

Changing colors:

1. Change colors at the end of every row. On the last dc of the row, work until 2 loops remain on the hook, then pull the new color through.
2. Carry the unused yarn loosely up the side for the 2 rows of each color, and cut it when you move to the next color. Cut the black each time you change colors, or carry it neatly up the edge.
3. Fasten off after Row 32, leaving a long tail for seaming.
4. Weave in the other ends. The finished sleeve piece should measure about 16 inches (41 cm) wide and 16 inches (41 cm) long.

Part 4: The Cuffs (Make 2)

Worked with black yarn, worked sideways in ribbing.

1. Foundation: Ch 13.
2. Row 1: Hdc in the 3rd ch from the hook and in each chain across. (11 stitches)
3. Rows 2 to 36: Ch 2, turn. Hdc in the BLO of every stitch across. (11 stitches)
4. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for seaming. The ribbing should stretch comfortably around your wrist, about 8 inches (20 cm) when relaxed. Add or remove rows to fit.

Assembly and Finishing

This is where your rainbow comes together. Take your time pinning before you sew.

Blocking:

1. Gently wet block all pieces. Pin them flat and let them dry fully.
2. Blocking opens up the clusters, helps the neon colors lie flat, and makes seaming much easier.

Joining the Shoulders:

1. Lay the back panel flat with the wide edge at the top, and place the two front panels in front of it with right sides together. Match the top edge of each front to the top edge of the back, starting at the outer corners.
2. Using black yarn, join about 5 inches (13 cm) from each outer corner with a slip stitch seam or a whip stitch.
3. The middle of the back (about 10 inches wide) stays open for the neck. The fronts hang open at the center.

Joining the Sides:

1. Join the outer side edge of each front panel to the matching side edge of the back, starting at the hem and working up for about 6 inches (15 cm).
2. The top 8 inches (20 cm) of each side stays open for the armholes.

Making the Sleeves:

1. Fold each sleeve piece in half lengthwise, right sides together, and sew the long edge with black yarn. Turn the sleeve right side out.
2. The sleeve should measure about 16 inches (41 cm) around the top edge and the cuff edge. This gives the fun, roomy, rounded shape you see in the photo.

Adding the Cuffs:

1. Sew the short ends of each cuff together to form a ring, matching the ridges.
2. Pin the cuff to the cuff end of the sleeve, with right sides together. Spread the fullness of the sleeve evenly all the way around.
3. Sew the cuff on with black yarn and a whip stitch. Weave in the end.

Attaching the Sleeves:

1. Match the seam of each sleeve to the underarm of the cardigan, and the center of the sleeve to the shoulder seam.
2. Pin the sleeve into the armhole, working around, so the stitches are spread evenly.
3. Sew the sleeve in with black yarn and a whip stitch or slip stitch seam.

Finishing Touches:

1. With the right side facing, join black at the bottom corner of the right front.
2. Work 1 round of sc evenly around the entire outer edge of the cardigan (up the fronts, around the back neck, down the other front, and along the hem), working 1 sc in each stitch or space and 3 sc in each corner. Join with a sl st and fasten off.
3. Weave in all remaining ends, and give the whole cardigan one last gentle steam.

A Few Friendly Tips

• Swatch first: A garment is more fun when it fits. Make a 4 x 4 inch swatch in granny stitch and check your gauge. If you have too many clusters per inch, go up a hook size. If you have too few, go down.
• Count as you go: On the panels, count your clusters at the end of every round. Each side should have one more cluster than the round before.
• Adjusting the fit: For a wider cardigan, add 3 chains to the foundation chain of the back for every extra inch, and add rounds to the fronts. For longer sleeves, add 4 rows per extra 2 inches.
• Keeping it neat: Weave in the ends as you finish each color. There are a lot of color changes, and dealing with them all at the end is no fun.
• Make it your own: Try pastels with a cream background, a sunset palette in warm reds and oranges, or a black cardigan with a single bright accent color.
• Care: Neon yarns can bleed, so wash the finished cardigan in cold water on its own the first time. Lay it flat to dry.

I hope you enjoy making this bright and happy cardigan. It is such a fun project, and every new color makes it more exciting to watch it grow.

If you run into any trouble or just want to share how your cardigan turned out, please reach out. I love seeing what you create.

Happy crocheting!