Foam Cardigan – Complete Step-by-Step Pattern

Original design by Aistė Butkevičienė (Vilnonis). Pattern version 1.0, January 2020.

1. Gathering Your Supplies

This cardigan is worked holding two strands of yarn together — a fluffy wool blend and a fine silk — creating a luxurious, lightweight fabric with incredible drape and halo.

• Yarn (held double throughout):
  • Main Yarn: Toscano by Conlaseta (28% wool, 35% viscose, 25% acrylic, 7% alpaca, 5% cashmere; 250m / 100g) — approx. 560 (580, 600, 620, 640, 660, 680) g in light pink.
  • Accent Yarn: Millefili by Yougurt (100% silk; 1500m / 100g) — approx. 95 (100, 100, 105, 110, 110, 115) g in light pink.
  • Combined yardage: ~215m per 100g when held double. Total: ~1400 (1450, 1500, 1550, 1600, 1650, 1700) m.
• Needles:
  • 3.0 mm straight and circular needles (for ribbing)
  • 3.75 mm straight and circular needles (for the Foam pattern)
  • 3.5 mm circular needles (for the button band)
• Notions: Tapestry needle for seaming, stitch holders or spare circular needles, removable stitch markers, 6 flat buttons (1.4–1.5 cm diameter), sewing needle and thread matching the buttons.
• Gauge:
  • Foam pattern on 3.75 mm needles: 22.5 sts × 28 rows = 10 × 10 cm
  • 2×1 rib on 3.0 mm needles: 30 sts × 37 rows = 10 × 10 cm
  • Important: If your gauge differs, adjust needle size or choose a different size description.

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2. Sizes & Finished Measurements

| Size | Bust (cm) | Hips (cm) | Finished Chest (cm) | Back Length (cm) | Cup Size | |------|-----------|-----------|---------------------|-------------------|----------| | XS | 82–86 | 86–90 | 118.5 | 56 | O–A | | S | 88–92 | 92–96 | 122.5 | 56 | A | | M | 94–98 | 98–102 | 125 | 56 | B | | L | 100–104 | 104–108 | 131 | 56 | C | | XL | 106–110 | 110–114 | 137 | 56 | C–D | | XXL | 112–116 | 116–120 | 141.5 | 56 | D | | XXXL | 118–122 | 122–126 | 148.5 | 56 | D–E |

• Recommended ease: 23–30 cm at the bust (oversized, relaxed fit).
• Model height: 165–175 cm.

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3. Abbreviations & Special Techniques

• k / p: knit / purl
• M1R: Make 1 Right — lift the strand between stitches from back to front, knit through the front loop.
• M1L: Make 1 Left — lift the strand between stitches from front to back, knit through the back loop.
• M: marker
• O5n: Wrap and turn (short rows) — wrap the next stitch, turn work.
• Foam Pattern: A 4-row repeat where slipped stitches with yarn-overs create tiny "air bubbles" in the fabric. See detailed instructions below.
• 2×1 Rib: k1, p2 repeat (on WS: p1, k2 repeat).
• Selvedge stitch (chain edge): Slip the first stitch of every row purlwise; knit the last stitch of every RS row, purl the last stitch of every WS row.
• 3-needle bind-off: Join two sets of live stitches by knitting them together from two parallel needles.

The Foam Stitch Pattern (4-row repeat):

• Row 1 (RS, setup): Knit all stitches.
• Row 2 (WS): Selvedge, yarn-over (reverse), p2, repeat to last stitch, p1.
• Row 3 (RS): Selvedge, slip the yarn-over and the next 2 stitches together by inserting the right needle into the yarn-over from above, lifting it over the two stitches and dropping it; k2, repeat to last stitch, k1.
• Row 4 (WS): Selvedge, p1, yarn-over (reverse), p2, repeat to last 2 stitches, p2.

What you'll master: An innovative textured stitch that creates a three-dimensional, bubble-like fabric with remarkable softness and drape.

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4. Important Notes Before You Begin

1. Read the entire pattern before casting on.
2. Selvedge stitches are worked as chain edges throughout, even when not explicitly mentioned.
3. Leave long tails when casting on and binding off for seaming.
4. Stitch counts include yarn-overs in the Foam pattern only on odd-numbered rows.
5. Length adjustments are possible only in increments of one Foam pattern repeat (4 rows). If you change the body length, adjust buttonhole spacing accordingly.
6. During short rows for shoulder slopes and bust darts, wrap the yarn only over 2 stitches as indicated.
7. Tension at armhole and sleeve cap edges may need adjustment — knit tighter or looser to maintain the elasticity of the main fabric.
8. The Foam fabric may bias slightly due to the stitch structure. Blocking after washing will straighten it.

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5. Back

• Cast on: Using 3.0 mm straight needles, cast on 101 (104, 107, 110, 113, 116, 119) sts using a simple long-tail cast-on.
• Ribbing: Work 30 rows in 2×1 rib, ending on an RS row.
• Transition to Foam: Switch to 3.75 mm straight needles. Work 1 WS row in purl, evenly increasing 33 (34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39) sts by lifting the stitch one row below the knit stitch of the ribbing and purling it. 134 (138, 142, 146, 150, 154, 158) sts on needles.
• Foam Pattern: Continue in the Foam stitch pattern, working straight until the back measures 66 (66, 62, 62, 62, 58, 58) rows from the increase row, ending on a WS row.

Armhole Shaping:

• Decrease row (RS): Selvedge, lift the nearest yarn-over, lift it over the next 2 stitches, k2tog with left-leaning decrease, repeat once more. Work to the last 5 sts, repeat the decrease twice more, k1. 4 sts decreased.
• Repeat the decrease row 6 (6, 6, 6, 6, 7, 7) more times every 4th row, then 2 times every 8th row. 98 (102, 106, 110, 114, 114, 118) sts remain.
• Work straight until the armhole measures 58 (58, 62, 62, 62, 66, 66) rows. End on a WS row.
• Mark the center 46 (46, 46, 50, 50, 50, 50) sts for the back neck with stitch markers. 26 (28, 30, 30, 32, 32, 34) sts remain for each shoulder.

Back Neck & Shoulder Shaping (Short Rows):

Work short rows using the wrap-and-turn method to shape the shoulders and back neck simultaneously. The pattern provides detailed row-by-row instructions for 19 steps, progressively wrapping and turning to create smooth shoulder slopes and a shallow back neck dip. After all short rows are complete, work one final RS row across all stitches, working the wraps together with their stitches.

Transfer all stitches to a spare circular needle. Break the yarn, leaving a tail at least 4 times the shoulder length for the 3-needle bind-off.

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6. Left Front

• Cast on: Using 3.0 mm straight needles, cast on 51 (54, 54, 57, 60, 63, 66) sts.
• Ribbing: Work 30 rows in 2×1 rib, ending on an RS row.
• Transition: Switch to 3.75 mm needles. Work 1 WS purl row, evenly increasing 15 (14, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20) sts. 66 (68, 70, 74, 78, 82, 86) sts.
• Foam Pattern: Work straight in Foam stitch.

Note: The left front simultaneously shapes the V-neckline, horizontal bust darts, and armhole, then the shoulder slope. Read all instructions for this section before proceeding.

V-Neck Shaping:

• Work 54 (54, 54, 54, 54, 58, 58) rows from the increase row, ending on a WS row.
• Neckline decrease row (RS): Work to the last 5 sts, lift yarn-over over 2 sts, k2tog left-leaning, k1. 2 sts decreased.
• Repeat the neckline decrease:
  • XS, S, M: 9 more times every 8th row.
  • L: 10 more times, alternating every 4th and 8th row, then once every 8th row.
  • XL: 10 more times, alternating every 4th and 8th row, then 3 times every 8th row.
  • XXL, XXXL: 1 (2) more time(s) every 4th row, then 12 times alternating every 4th and 8th row.
• Work straight at the neckline edge.

Horizontal Bust Darts (Short Rows):

• Work 61 (61, 57, 57, 57, 53, 53) rows from the increase row, ending on an RS row.
• Work short rows using the wrap-and-turn method, progressively wrapping further from the edge to create a horizontal dart. The dart depth is 8 (8, 12, 12, 12, 16, 16) rows.
• Work a smoothing RS row across all stitches, working wraps together with their stitches.
• Work 5 more rows, ending on a WS row. The left front height at the side seam should match the back: 66 (66, 62, 62, 62, 58, 58) rows.

Armhole Shaping:

• Decrease row (RS): Selvedge, lift yarn-over over 2 sts, k2tog left-leaning, repeat once more. Work to end. 2 sts decreased.
• Repeat 8 (8, 8, 8, 8, 9, 9) more times every 4th row, then once every 8th row. Work straight until the armhole measures 55 (55, 59, 59, 59, 63, 63) rows. End on an RS row.

Shoulder Slope (Short Rows):

• Work short rows to shape the shoulder, wrapping progressively further from the neck edge. The pattern provides specific wrap points for each size.
• After all short rows, work a final smoothing row. 26 (28, 30, 30, 32, 32, 34) sts.
• Transfer to a stitch holder. Break yarn.

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7. Right Front

Work as a mirror image of the left front. The V-neckline decreases, bust darts, armhole shaping, and shoulder slope are all reversed. The pattern provides detailed row-by-row instructions.

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8. Sleeves (Make 2 Identical)

• Cast on: Using 3.0 mm straight needles, cast on 38 (41, 44, 44, 47, 50, 53) sts.
• Ribbing: Work 26 rows in 2×1 rib, ending on an RS row.
• Transition: Switch to 3.75 mm needles. Work 1 WS purl row, evenly increasing 20 (21, 24, 26, 27, 28, 27) sts by lifting stitches from the row below. 58 (62, 68, 70, 74, 78, 80) sts.
• Setup rows: Work 8 rows in the Foam pattern setup (Rows 1–8 as described in the pattern).
• Foam Pattern with increases: Continue in Foam pattern, increasing 1 stitch at each end every 6th row (by working M1L at the beginning and M1R at the end of RS rows). Work a total of 98 (98, 92, 92, 92, 86, 86) rows from the increase row. 90 (94, 98, 100, 104, 106, 108) sts.

Sleeve Cap Shaping:

• Decrease row (RS): Selvedge, lift yarn-over over 2 sts, k2tog left-leaning, repeat once more. Work to last 5 sts, repeat twice, k1. 4 sts decreased.
• Repeat the decrease sequence as specified for each size, working decreases every 4th row and then every 8th row.
• After all decreases, bind off the remaining 26 (26, 26, 28, 28, 26, 28) sts purlwise on a WS row. Break yarn.
• The finished sleeve cap height is 41 (41, 45, 45, 45, 49, 49) rows.

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9. Assembly & Finishing

1. Shoulder Seams: Using the yarn tails left from the back, join the left shoulder using the 3-needle bind-off method. Then, using the same tail, bind off the back neck stitches purlwise. Join the right shoulder with the 3-needle bind-off.

2. Sleeve & Side Seams: Using the remaining yarn tails, sew the sleeve seams and side seams using the mattress stitch.

3. Set in Sleeves: Sew the sleeves into the armholes, matching the selvedge stitches of the sleeve cap to the selvedge stitches of the armhole. For the bound-off portion of the sleeve cap, sew approximately 3 bound-off stitches to 2 selvedge stitches.

4. Button Band:

   • Using 3.0 mm circular needles, starting from the bottom of the right front, pick up and knit stitches along the entire front edge, around the neckline, and down the left front: 22 sts on the right front ribbing, 45 (45, 45, 45, 45, 47, 47) sts along the right front edge, 71 (71, 74, 74, 76, 75, 75) sts along the right neckline, 49 (49, 49, 52, 51, 52, 52) sts along the back neck, 71 (71, 74, 74, 76, 75, 75) sts along the left neckline, 45 (45, 45, 45, 45, 47, 47) sts along the left front edge, 22 sts on the left front ribbing. 325 (325, 331, 334, 337, 340, 340) sts.
   • Work 6 rows in 2×1 rib.

5. Buttonholes (on the right front band):

   • On the next RS row: work 5 sts, k2tog left-leaning, yarn-over, work 10 sts, repeat 5 more times, k2tog left-leaning, yarn-over, work to end.
   • On the following WS row, purl the yarn-overs as k1.
   • Work 6 more rows in rib, then bind off using the sewn bind-off method described below.

6. Sewn Bind-Off: Thread a tapestry needle with a single strand of yarn. Working from right to left, insert the needle into the back loop of the 2nd stitch, then the front loop of the 1st stitch, and pull through. Repeat across the entire row. This creates an invisible, elastic edge.

7. Buttons: Sew 6 buttons on the left front band, mirroring the buttonhole placement. Center each button slightly closer to the front edge.

8. Final Blocking: Weave in all ends. Wash the cardigan gently, roll in a towel to remove excess water, and lay flat to dry, shaping to the finished measurements. Pin the button band and neckline to ensure straight, even edges despite the different knitting directions.

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Final Section: Where to Go from Here

Congratulations! By completing the Foam cardigan, you've mastered one of the most innovative stitch patterns in modern knitting, along with advanced garment construction techniques including hybrid sleeve shaping, horizontal bust darts, and professional finishing methods.

The Foam stitch is incredibly versatile — try it in a heavier yarn for a cozy winter coat, or in a crisp linen for a structured summer jacket. The construction principles you've learned here can be applied to any garment, giving you the confidence to design your own custom-fit pieces.

Wear your Foam cardigan open for a relaxed, airy look, or buttoned up for a polished, cozy silhouette — the choice is yours, depending on how "foamy" your mood is today! Happy knitting!