Guell Hat – Complete Step-by-Step Pattern

1. Materials & Gauge

To achieve the luxurious, soft halo and perfect drape of this hat, a high-quality cashmere or cashmere-blend yarn is highly recommended.

• Yarn:
  • Main Color: Carriagi Cashmere (100% cashmere, 320m / 100g) – approx. 30 (40; 50; 60) (75; 80) g depending on size.
  • Contrast Colors (Optional for pattern variation): Botto Giuseppe Vintage (100% cashmere, 650m / 100g) – 25g each of two shades.
• Needles:
  • 3.0 mm circular needles (80–100 cm length) for the main body.
  • 2.0 mm circular needles (or size needed to achieve gauge) for the brim.
• Notions: Stitch markers, tapestry needle, measuring tape.
• Gauge: 34 stitches x 42 rows = 10 x 10 cm (4" x 4") in stockinette stitch on 3.0 mm needles, measured after blocking and slightly stretched.
  • Pro Tip: Always knit a generous swatch, wash, and block it. Cashmere blooms beautifully, and your gauge will settle into its true, luxurious self.

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2. Abbreviations & Special Techniques

This pattern uses a few specific techniques to achieve its tailored fit and textured look.

• K (Лиц): Knit
• P (Изн): Purl
• Selvedge (Кр): Slip the first stitch of every row; purl the last stitch of every row to create a neat edge.
• DS (Сдв - Double Stitch / German Short Row): Slip a stitch, bring the yarn forward, slip the stitch back, and pull the yarn tight to create a "double" loop. On the return row, knit or purl both legs of this loop together as one stitch to hide the turn seamlessly.
• Turn (О): Turn your work.
• Cable Cross (Перехлест): The pattern features 4-over-4 or 5-over-5 cable crosses (depending on your size), worked either to the left or right using a cable needle.
• Half-Patent Ribbing: Alternates 1 purl, 1 knit, 1 purl. On the return row, you knit the knit stitch, but you purl into the stitch below the purl stitch to create a deep, squishy, textured rib.

What you'll master: German short rows for custom shaping, half-patent ribbing, and reading complex cable charts.

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3. The Brim (Валик)

We start by knitting the brim flat. This creates a sturdy, structured edge that won't stretch out over time.

• Cast On: Using 2.0 mm needles, cast on 87 (97) stitches using a standard long-tail cast-on.
• Rows 1–12 (approx. 5–7 cm): Work in stockinette stitch (knit on Right Side, purl on Wrong Side).
• Transition: In the final Wrong Side row of the brim, drop one strand of yarn (if knitting with multiple strands) to transition to your main working yarn.
• Ribbing Setup: Work 3 rows of 1x1 ribbing (starting and ending with a knit stitch after/before the selvedge) on the Right Side of the fabric.

What you'll master: Creating a structured, non-curling brim and managing yarn transitions smoothly.

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4. Ear Shaping (German Short Rows)

This is the standout feature of the Guell Hat! Instead of a straight tube, we use German short rows to add extra fabric exactly where your ears sit, preventing that dreaded "gap" at the sides of the neck.

• Marker Placement: Place markers to divide your stitches. For Size 1: 19 sts, marker, 10 sts, marker, 14 sts (center), marker, 15 sts, marker, 10 sts, marker, 19 sts.
• The Short Row Dance: Starting on a Wrong Side row, you will work back and forth, creating a Double Stitch (DS) at each turn.
  • You will turn 1 stitch before the marker until you reach it, then switch to turning 2 stitches before the next marker.
  • Don't panic if it looks a little messy! The magic happens in the "smoothing" rows, where you pick up all those wraps and knit/purl them together with their stitches, making the turns completely invisible.
• Joining: Once the ear shaping is complete, you will work a final connecting row that joins the work, and from this point on, you will knit in the round! Place a new Beginning of Round (BOR) marker.

What you'll master: Executing German short rows with precision to create a custom, tailored fit that hugs the head perfectly.

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5. The Main Body: Cables & Ribbing

Now for the most satisfying part: watching that beautiful cable pattern emerge in the round!

• Setup: The pattern is divided into repeating motifs. Each motif consists of a central cable (12 or 15 stitches, depending on your size) framed by 3 stitches of half-patent ribbing.
• Knitting the Round: Follow the provided chart for the cable crosses (usually happening every 6th or 8th row). Between the crosses, simply maintain your half-patent ribbing.
• Pro Tip: Try the hat on after the 5th cable cross! The decrease section at the top takes up about 3–5 cm of height, so make sure the body is long enough for your liking before you start decreasing.

What you'll master: Reading cable charts in the round and maintaining consistent tension in textured stitch patterns.

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6. Crown Decreases (Макушка)

Time to close up the top! The decreases are strategically placed to taper the hat smoothly without leaving a large, awkward hole at the crown.

• The Sequence: You will systematically decrease stitches within the cable panels and the ribbing. The pattern provides a clear, row-by-row guide (e.g., knitting 2 stitches together, then knitting a few stitches, then decreasing again).
• The Final Pull: As the stitch count gets very small (down to just 1 or 2 stitches per panel), you will do a final round of aggressive decreases. Cut the yarn, leaving a long tail. Thread this tail onto a tapestry needle, weave it through the remaining live stitches, pull it tight like a drawstring, and secure it firmly on the inside.

What you'll master: Symmetrical crown shaping and a flawless, professional drawstring finish.

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7. Finishing & The Magic of Blocking

This is the grand finale, and arguably the most satisfying part of the process!

• Weave in Ends: Take your time weaving in all those tails on the wrong side using a tapestry needle.
• Wet Blocking: Submerge your finished hat in cool water with a gentle wool/cashmere wash for 20 minutes. Gently press the water out (never wring or twist cashmere!). Roll it in a clean towel to absorb excess moisture.
• Shape: Lay the hat flat on a dry towel or blocking mat. Gently pat and stretch it into your exact finished measurements. Pin the cables so they pop and the ribbing lies flat.
• Dry: Let it air dry completely away from direct heat. The blocking will relax the fibers, bloom the cashmere halo, and transform your knit into a professional, boutique-quality accessory.

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Final Section: Where to Go from Here

Take a deep breath and admire your handiwork! By completing the Guell Hat, you’ve conquered flat-to-round transitions, mastered the slightly intimidating (but totally manageable!) German short rows, and executed beautiful cable crosses.

These skills are incredibly versatile. Now that you know how to shape a hat for a custom fit, try experimenting with different yarn weights! A chunky, single-ply wool would make this an incredibly cozy winter beanie, while a lighter, sequined mohair would make it the perfect, glamorous accessory for a chilly spring evening. Happy knitting, and enjoy your beautiful new handmade staple!